08 August, 2013

Weekendje Weg - Bruges (Brugge)

I'd been to Bruges before.  One afternoon, on a Sunday back in 2008.  We had planned to go to Antwerpen, only to find that it was a car-free day and nothing was open, so decided to go on to Bruges for a bit of a look.  And wow!  It was one of the most beautiful cities in all of Europe.

So, when the opportunity came up to return this last weekend I jumped at it.  Carly (my first friend in Holland) had booked tickets to see Cats, the musical, in Oostende and someone had cancelled and she had a spare ticket.  I'd never seen Cats, so thought, why not?

We arrived in Bruges and the weather was gorgeous.  Absolutely glorious.  We were coming off the back of some of the hottest days of the year and the cool change was just arriving which was fabulous (although no complaints about the hot weather, it was amazing!).

Our first stop was the square, of course.  We decided to grab dinner there and soak up the atmosphere while doing a bit of people watching.  Until the bill arrived.  96 euros for three mains and two rounds of drinks for the three of us was a bit of a rude shock!  But, we reasoned that this was a one-off and we should just enjoy the perfect weather and gezelligheid.

Saturday was spent cruising the city and the multitude of chocolateries.  There's one thing that Bruges will never run out of, and that's chocolate.  And horse-drawn carriages.  The city was absolutely heaving, but to be honest, I didn't really notice it.  Usually I hate crowds, but it really wasn't a problem.  I think I was just enjoying my break so much that I could have been anywhere!

Canals of Bruges
Look at the people behind me. I didn't even notice they were there!

In the evening we headed over to Oostende to see Cats, and the city was a huge surprise.  I was expecting a bit of a dump of a town to be honest, not the Belgian Benidorm!  High-rise apartments line the beach for miles and the promenade was bustling with people enjoying the late afternoon sunshine.  It was lovely.

And the musical.  What can I say?  Meh.  It didn't excite me.  I enjoyed it, but I wouldn't rave about it and my life isn't richer for having seen it.  I don't get the hype.

What I was excited about though was the famous Bruges Belfry.  On the Saturday I looked at it and thought to myself: I should climb that.  I had a quick look at the entry and saw people lined up to climb and decided then and there that I wouldn't be joining that queue.  Instead I planned to come back as soon as it opened the next day and avoid the masses.


Bruges Belfry
The Belfry.  366 steps to the top.


And I'm so glad that I did!  I was one of the first to the top and the view was spectacular!


The view from the Belfry, Bruges
The view from the Belfry

The absolute best part of getting up early to climb the Belfry was that nobody else had the same idea.  I walked the streets of Bruges from 8 am and the city was practically deserted.  Quiet and still, it gave me a whole other level of appreciation for the place.  Sunday morning is my favourite time to really explore a city, while it's still sleeping.  Especially in summer and with gorgeous weather.


Canals of Bruges, Sunday morning without the crowds.
The same view as above, without the masses!


My top tips for visiting Bruges:
Avoid eating on the main square if you are on a budget.  Yes, the atmosphere is amazing, but the food is overpriced and average at best.  Explore first, you'll find a multitude of lovely restaurants and cafes within a stones throw of the Belfry.

Take a canal cruise.  While the canals are not as extensive as Amsterdam and it's only about a half hour trip, the city of Bruges is Unesco listed and there is some seriously impressive architecture to be seen, including the 100+ metre high cathedral which is made entirely of bricks instead of stone.

Eat chocolate!  It doesn't matter where really.  I know that not all chocolate shops were created equal, but in Belgium you'll have to try very hard to find a bad one!

Try a trappist beer.  There are literally hundreds to choose from, but be careful: some of them are so strong they're likely to blow your socks off!

Take the time to visit Oostende if the weather is good and time allows.  The promenade is well worth a stroll.  The beach is lovely and there's plenty of space.


I love Bruges.  I still want to return in the winter, I think it will be a spectacular cold, Christmas city.  Have you been?  What did you think?

Comments (9)

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We found the coolest second hand shop while we were there. I loved all the shopping too. And the chocolate: heaven! I'm glad I've been able to pace myself and still have some left over. It was almost a week ago that I visited, so that's an impressive effort on my behalf.
Bruges is absolutely gorgeous and I will visit again soon!
It was great shopping in Bruges. Every street is as pretty as the other.I especially liked the little retro shop!
I did enjoy the ( short ) boat trip. It was lovely to see the beautiful buildings from a different angle and hear some of the history of the town. There was a ( average sized ) house for sale at a mere 2 million euros........... We were imangining what we could buy for that price over here in Holland..........
I'd seen Cats before and knew what to expect. In it's day ( 30 odd years ago ) I can imagine it being very new and exciting. I do think it's more about the dancing and the singing than the story........
All in all I enjoyed my weekend in Bruges and can't wait to visit again.
1 reply · active 608 weeks ago
You're absolutely right. Cats is totally about the songs and the performance, rather than the story. I loved all of the songs and felt a bit tragic that I could sing along with most of them, even though I had never seen it before. Goes to show how much a part of our generation the musical has become, right! That house, man! Couldn't believe it.
I loveeee Brugge!
I've been there 4 times I think. Because we live so closed (3 hours), is not difficult to take all family and friend who comes to visit me to Holland.
It is a small but so gorgeous city and it's always full of people (and japans)!
I love it more since the first time when I saw in the chocolate museum the story of how chocolate was made. And guess what? Venezuela is one of the countries with the finest cacao in all the world! (a bit proud)

No doubt! I will always go back to Brugge. It doesn't matter if I have seen it all!

If you have a chance, take the train from Brugge to Gent and you will love one more city in Belgium!
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1 reply · active 608 weeks ago
Gent is also lovely. I went there a few years ago in the winter and thought it was gorgeous.
This post has excellent timing! My mother is coming over from Oz and we were planning a visit to Bruges. We were given a hotel voucher for a night's stay in Belgium for an engagement present, but upon looking Bruges isn't on the list :-( There's one in Oostende, and another in Antwerp - What do you recommend? We're driving from AMS on Saturday morning, and could spend the day in Bruges then sleep over in Oostende, returning to Bruges on the Sunday for more sight-seeing before driving home, or we could spend the day in Bruges, drive to Antwerp for dinner and sleeping, and then explore Antwerp on Sunday? Or just fork out our own money for a Bruges hotel? Ah, decisions!
Nissa, I'd totally stay in Oostende. It's only about 25 minutes drive from Bruges, wheras Antwerpen is about an hour. Plus it's actually a pretty nice place. One thing to bear in mind when going: all the shops in Antwerpen are closed on Sundays. Actually all the normal shops are closed everywhere in Belgium on Sundays, but the chocolate shops will be open, and so will all the cafes and tourist attractions. I personally would make the most of Bruges and perhaps stop in Antwerpen en route. The cathedral in Antwerpen is gorgeous, but it's a bloody nightmare driving into the city. We actually avoided it altogether and went through Terneuse instead. Longer drive, but you avoid the mess that is the Antwerp ring road. I could care less if I never go to Antwerpen again, purely because the traffic is horrid.

So, to make a long story short (lol), I'd go to Bruges, stay in Oostende and then visit Antwerpen on the way back for the architecture. Hotels in Bruges are very exie, so if you have a freebie in Oostende, take it!
I love Brugge! Definitely agree that eating on the Markt should be avoided. However, there's a great restaurant called Malpertuus just around the corner. They have lovely, traditional Belgian food, like rabbit stew. And it's conveniently across the street from an excellent chocolate shop, Dumon Chocolatier.

I also highly recommend touring De Halve Maan brewery; even if you don't like beer, the trip to the roof of the building is worth it for the view!

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